Wireless control

Hi Lance,

Typical lead times are 3-5 business days to manufacture.

Shipping times will vary depending on the option chosen during checkout. Free shipping generally takes 3-4 days.

Perfect, I noticed that the quote was only valid for 30 days, do I need to re-enter it to get current pricing?

Pricing doesn’t change that often except for shipping so odds are it will be exactly the same.

Its up to you, I don’t think we have any price changes planned in the near future on this line.


So it is a good thing I went to the site to meet with my customer. He has now added that he would also like to in-turn, stop an air compressor that is appox. 800’ away in another building. I think I can get line of sight if I strategically locate the antennas, but the antenna cable will need to be probably 20’ long, is that an issue. Also, so can the master Receiver be equipped with a transmitter to control the remote location?

Assuming “not”, I did find your Wireless Contact Closure Transmitter Receiver 1-Channel SPDT Relay 2-way. Is that what I should use? I can use a contact closure from my PLC to give an input to the transmitter which would send the command to the receiver located at the air compressor to open a contact on the receiver controller. YES??? These Trans/Receiver operate independent of the other system I want, correct? The info sheet says, upon loss of comms, Auto shutoff, can that be changed? I can not have the compressor stopping just because comms is lost.

What Enclosure do I need for the above?

Thanks for your help. Sorry for all the questions.


Hi Lance,

As long as there isn’t too much between the transmitter and the receiver (more than a couple of walls) 800’ should be fine for that wireless technology. I would recommend an externally sourced shielded antenna cable if you wanted to go 20 feet.

The receivers should automatically repeat data using a self forming/healing mesh network protocol Digimesh. This means each receiver is a signal repeater.

Yes that setup would work. There is not a good way to prevent this on that series, I would recommend reversing the wiring if you decided to go this route so that the relay has to be in the NO position to turn off the compressor.

Hello Jacob,

I received my order today, I have a question about mounting.
Can I put the FXR165_2Mile in the same enclosure with the XR2x_kit
module and how close or far away can the antennas be to each other?
So the jist is that the board needs to be mounted very close to the enclosure
wall, so the antenna connector sticks through the enclosure and the antenna
screws onto it?

Are the score lines on the circuit boards for trimming the board, if needed?

I ordered 2 additional ENC-CFL thinking that the XR2x module would fit, but
not so.

Do you have a recommended method to mount the CC1_MirW in the ENC-CFL, locating
the antenna hole, does it need to be grounded, does the FXR165_2Mile need to be grounded on the circuit board ground pads?

Does the DMST-002 on the FXR165 need a separate 12VDC power?

Sorry these are pretty detailed questions, and I hope not to ignorant.


Hi Lance, you can mount two wireless boards in the same enclosure, I would put the antennas on opposite sides of the enclosure if possible. There isn’t a hard and fast rule on how close they can be, but if you can manage 12 inches with the enclosure in between them this should be fine.

You can use antenna extensions to run the cable in larger enclosures to make installation and mounting easier. You can find these at: https://store.ncd.io/product/rp-sma-malefemale-extension-cable/ or you can order specific lengths from somewhere like Digi-Key. Just make sure its RP-SMA.

These score lines are for trimming, but trimming them effects the 30-day money back guarantee so I would test functionality before removing the scored tabs. Also it will effect its ability to mount in the enclosures.

The 2-channel MirX boards can be put in these enclosures: https://store.ncd.io/product/sfl-enclosure-for-select-2-channel-5-or-10-amp-boards/

There are a lot of ways to mount the boards, if you have a back plane on existing enclosure we recommend 1/4 inch standoffs or higher.

The antenna does not need to be grounded as long as there isn’t more than a couple of feet of antenna wire and the ground of the antenna isn’t touching anything conductive that isn’t properly grounded. Long antenna wire can build up a static charge.

The module doesn’t need to be grounded as it will share the ground with the board using the pins on the module to the socket on the board.

The wireless module don’t need a separate power supply. They run off of 3.3v regulated by the circuit board.

I think I got all your questions, but let me know if I missed any or anything needs clarification.

Jacob, help

I installed the 9 single relay units and the master, all came up just fine except for 1 relay, when powered it up, the ready LED came on and the Relay LED is on with nothing connected. and will not go off. can we troubleshoot this over the phone or does it need to go back for repair. please call me at your earliest convenience.


lance weeks
ID Electric
801 599 7790

Hi Lance,

Before the call can you post a photo of the board with the issue? Mostly focused on any wiring and the enclosure mounting. If its possible a picture of the bottom of the board focused on the input terminal solder points. I’m primarily looking for a bridge of some kind.

When the transmitter board that is having the issue is plugged in, is there continuity on the Normally Open side of the relay on the receiver that it controls?

By continuity I mean between the NO and the Common on the relay.

Just to post what we discussed on the phone on things to check:

Before checking any of the below, make sure that the receiver is powered up.

  1. Check for excessive heat on the bottom of the malfunctioning board on the heat sink (metal rod soldered to the underside). If it is excessively hot this generally means the wireless module is drawing too much current and is overheating the circuit.

  2. Try tightening down the antenna. Check that the mounting nut + washer is as far back as possible while doing this to make sure it doesn’t impede the connection between the antenna and the RP-SMA connector.

  3. Try swapping out the antenna on the board having the issue with an antenna from a known working board. This will indicate if the antenna itself is the issue. If this does fix the issue I would also put the original antenna onto a known working board to see if the issue arises on the known good board with it’s use.

  4. Try connecting power to the board having the issue ~10 feet away from the receiver. If not successful try ~2 feet. If neither is successful, this indicates that the transmitter’s wireless module is non-functioning.

Give me a call if any or none of these issues show up.

Hello Jacob,

Attached are two photos of the module in question. I have it in my office out of the enclosure that we were installing it into. I have to schedule another day to go back to the site and finish the installation of the 2 relay modules and then we will test per above your suggestions.

There is NO continuity between the NC and COM


If there is no continuity between the Normally Closed and the Common on the relay then the relay is active (in the normally open position) so something is telling it to activate.

When the system is running properly this indicates that the corresponding transmitter’s input is closed.

Sorry, I meant no continuity between the NO and Com on the contact input. Yet the relay LED is on.
I am going back to the site on Monday, so I will be in touch.

So the default state of the relay status LEDs of the transmitter is on. When the relay board they’re paired to sends out its status broadcast they will update this LED to the current state of the corresponding relay.

So what this means is that the contact closure transmitter board is not talking to the receiver/relay controller properly. This could be a range issue.